Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem. Home from Bulgaria, Macedonia and Greece

130808

8^th August 2013

Shabbat Shalom dear friends. We are back home with amazing stories from our travels.

The first thing I opened upon my return was this quote from author and academic John Ronald ReuelTolkien, sent by Gerald Gaffin, Tolkien was asked by a German if he was Jewish. His response.....

“If I am to understand that you are inquiring whether I am of Jewish origin, I can only reply that I regret that I appear to have no ancestors of that gifted people. My great-great-grandfather came to England in the eighteenth century from Germany: the main part of my descent is therefore purely English, and I am a British subject—which should be sufficient.

I have been accustomed, nonetheless, to regard my German name with pride, and continued to do so throughout the period of the late regrettable war, in which I served in the English army.

I cannot, however, forbear to comment that if impertinent and irrelevant inquiries of this sort are to become the rule in matters of literature, then the time is not far distant when a German name will no longer be a source of pride.”

While giving the amber light to action against Iran, American Embassies have been forced to close in most countries of the Middle East due to clear and present danger particularly in Yemen which has become a crucible of terror. It seems ironic that the only Embassy which remains unthreatened is in Israel which is the only country which is denied an Embassy in her capital city as a sop to those who want to blow the USA to pieces! For the second time Congress is trying to correct this abominationhttp://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/113/hr2846 and contact your congresspersonhttp://unitedwithisrael.org/u-s-congress-introduces-legislation-to-relocate-u-s-embassy-to-jerusalem/

HR 2846 states that “The United States maintains its embassy in the functioning capital in every country except in the State of Israel.”The bill also recognizes that the government of Israel has met all of the standards for establishing a capital city according to the international law set forth by the 1907 Hague Regulations stating “Israel has far exceeded the 1907 Hague Regulation as directed by international law. Israel has taken all measures to restore and ensure public order and safety in Jerusalem. Jerusalem has been far safer and more protected under Israel’s administration than under any previous authorities.”

Now back to our incredible journey

A dear friend, Pablo Nankin, told me that he loved Sofia because the Bulgarians defended and took care of their Jews, against Hitlers demands whereas the Macedonians did not however Bulgaria controlled Macedonia and the King of Bulgaria ordered his police to send the Jews to the camps thinking he would not have to do so with Bulgarian Jews. http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/judaica/ejud_0002_0018_0_18798.html

S From Skopje http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPDRbAju6MY

To Ohrid http://www.jewsfrommacedonia.mk/Photo-Gallery-Ohrid 

To continue our journey from Ochrid to Bitola or Monastir http://www.yadvashem.org/yv/en/exhibitions/communities/monastir/overview.asp We went to the Jewish cemetery. Once the town of Bitola had a thriving Jewish community and the entire community was wiped out in the Shoah ; again their ashes were the only remains. Cousins Miriam Friedman nee Ovadia and Mazal Levi cried as they saw that the entire cemetery had become a field, the gravestones undoubtedly taken for secondary use. How were they to look for their families? Suddenly Zvi called to them, inside the tiny prayer room and memorial he found their family names on the wall among a list of families of Bitola that were taken by the Nazis - Koen, Kutiel, Aruti . - Zvi said Yizkor and Kaddish as we cried together in their pain. Miriam, 79 years old, finally found evidence of her lost family. She and Mazal had searched the world to find some memories of their predecessors without success and suddenly, in the cemetery, they had tangible truth, photos of the community. We cried together for the horrendous loss caused through foul all-encompassing hatred. It began with dehumanisation (like today), so that the locals in the various countries would not feel that their diabolical acts were anything but just rewards. In Bitola, the second largest Jewish community in Macedonia, there is a memorial to the Jews taken by the Nazis, written by the people of the city. The words on the memorial were simple. "In memory of our friends, family and brethren who were taken from us by the Fascist regime"

En route we stopped at the breathtaking monastery and church of Rila One of the most beautiful aspects are the paintings on the walls and vaulted ceiling which included scenes from the Old Testament. http://www.rilamonastery.pmg-blg.com/Gallery_fas_car_en.htm

Friday saw us cross another border to Thessalonika or Saloniki in Greece. We went to the synagogue and on way we stopped at the railway station from which the Nazis sent the Jews of Saloniki to the camps. Mazal's father among them. From there we walked to the Holocaust memorial and so to Shabbat morning prayers. I was amazed that the entire service, not just the prayers, was held in Ivrit (Hebrew). We were warmly welcomed, we sang for them and then we had kiddush. From the synagogue we walked the area to absorb the atmosphere. Later we saw the homes of the Jewish families who lived in Saloniki before the Holocaust and their obvious participation in life here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Jews_of_Thessaloniki

After Shabbat we went to a local Taverna where we sang and were sung to. For Yossi Russo it was a moving and special treat as he sang in the city, the songs and the style his ancestors sang

As we left Greece and travelled back to Bulgaria for our flight home we stopped at a petrol station. We were all happy and chatting until a group of yobbos stopped next to one of our group and yelled AUSCHWITZ at her. Some things never change.

This was a truly incredible experience made possible by our guide Michael Shir from Jerusalem and our Macedonian hosts Angel Ivanov (Adriatic Travel adriatic@t-home.mk) and our local guide Willy (willybeetle@yahoo.com). We were the guinea pigs for this particular tour and they worked their hearts out to ensure our enjoyment and fascination.

Our journey was intertwined with our inevitable connection to the Shoah. The children of the perpetrators are not always like those yobbos - sometimes the sins of the father or grandfather are not visited on their ancestors – sometimes those ancestors take responsibility for the sins of the fathers and try to right them. The grandchildren of Nazis did the Walk of Life. Their words are very moving and enlightening http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIq9d-gC91U

Dr Mehmet Oz, Turkish/American Moslem, the famous doctor on Oprah Winfrey, came to Israel with Rabbi Shmuley Boteach. This is what Rabbi Shmuley wrote about their visit.

Mehmet is a Muslim, perhaps the world’s most famous who is not a head of state. He is a righteous and proud ambassador of his faith and feels an innate kinship and brotherhood with the Jewish people.
At the tomb of Maimonides we noted the role reversal. Maimonides, a Jew, was the world’s most famous physician, and he served the Muslim ruler Saladin.

http://www.jpost.com/Opinion/Columnists/No-holds-barred-A-week-in-Israel-with-Dr-Oz-322127

It is so special to come home to Israel- as always but especially good to come home to fresh and crispy foods! No more stodge, the incredible fruit and veg picked yesterday, not last week; the salads made today not last week; the incredible variety of local foods, the freshness, freshness freshness of everything you eat..................... gosh I missed that!!!!

I loved the moment I walked onto the El Al aeroplane, the smiles and outstanding service of the stewardesses, the good food, the sound of Hebrew without translation, the feeling of being at home to discover we missed two wonderful sporting events

Messi and the Barcelona Team in a game with and for children battling cancer on their Peace Tourhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnnWmMf7kbs&feature=youtu.be

Amar’e Stoudemire, NY Knicks star and co-owner of Hapoel Yerushalaim Basketball team, connected to his Jewish roots at Beit Hatfutsot with his family http://www.bh.org.il/news-item.aspx?115445

Here are many of the friends of HaKol Yechassi – the Hora Jerusalem Choir with whom we travelledhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AlQcve8Npk

The songs we sang

Adio Querido the story of the pain and bitterness of Spanish (Sefardi) Jews at their motherland Spainhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duLiIeO_7tI

The Kabbalist prayer Ana b'Koach http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u55GkOe74Y

At each site that demanded prayer for those who perished we sang Kaddishhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hQ0OkcLKuE

So here we are, back with the view from our veranda, the grandchildren, the preparations for Shabbat and the knowledge that we are home, sweet and beautiful home.

With love from Jerusalem – heart of our world

Sheila

Shabbat Shalom from Ohrid

130801

1st August 2013

Shabbat Shalom dear friends - Shabbat Shalom from Ohrid in Macedonia!!!!!

I am really out of touch with what is happening in Israel, other than the obvious. We sadly missed the closing ceremony of the Maccabiah after a truly impressive games. Fine athletes in many fields, some surprises some disappointments, lots of medal and friends for life.

I was rather surprised to read that we put up Palestinian flags near the Knesset to welcome their diplomats/politicians/negotiators, because last time I looked there were no Israel flags near Ramalla even though it is almost on top of the Ramot neighbourhood of Jerusalem and getting closer every day with major building projects.

I find a few things difficult ot understand, actually rather a lot of things but the whole "We are Israel's closest allies" then demanding the release of numerous prisoners with blood on their hands because they were incarcerated before Oslo yet the outright refusal to relase Jonathan Pollard who spied for a friendly nation which had already given the USA all the information and information gathering they needed or wanted  How is that one fair?????? There is a Scottish saying "False friends are worse than bitter enemies." Which addresses the fact that it is easier to deal with someone you know is not on your side than someone who you thought was a friend but is not.

So let me tell you about our trip. I am not a person for organised tours. I hate being told when to wake, when to look, when to go up ordown and when and where to be anywhere!!!! Having said that, this was a trip arranged with friends within Zvi's choir and I have to admit that even this rebel is having fun!!!

Sofia, Bulgaria was a bit of a disappointment wiht too many areas that resembled downtown Gaza!!! In fact it wasn't until we crossed into Macedonia that I began to understand the difference between communist regimes and socialist regimes - a world apart. Actually I must admit that my views were coloured by the fact that the bus were travelling in was old, it broke down and despite 43 degree temperatures the A/C broke!!!!!

Skopje, Macedonia is fabulous -everything about it including the people.Here we saw the difference between Yugoslavia and Bulgaria at it sharpest. They took their mixed history - created some of it and recorded some of it and turned it into the most beautiful and positive reconstruction through the most wonderful staturary I have ever seen anywhere in the world. We all sang both Hebrew and Ladino songs for the leaders of the Jewish community in an impromptu concert at the Synagogue (even our police guards joined in and one of them became very emotional and showed me a photo of himself at the Kotel and told me he had Jewish ancestors). We really didn't need a police guard but this is the first group to come from Israel and they wanted to make sure everything went smoothly. They were just sweethearts and enjoyed our tour as much as we did!!!!! 

From the synagogue we went to the Holocaust Museum which is absolutely amazing. - nearly 11,000 Macedonian Jews, virtually the entire community, were taken to Treblinka (all Sefardim) and and not a one survived. Someone in the community went to Treblinka and brought ashes back to Skopje. As you may remember Zvi's Uncle Yosef was the doctor of Treblinka and was killed with his wife na dlittle daughter Zvi'a days before liberation. As the only child of the only survivers of boths parents families Zvi had never found cosolation, never had a place to mourn. For the first time in his life Zvi had something tangible from that hell hole and of his family all of whom perished. As he stood before the urns I prompted him to say kaddish (the prayer for the dead) since no-one was left to mourn them at the time. I think in a strange way he actually found some sense of closure. I was a blubbering mess of course as wer emost of our group!!

From Skopje we drove toward Ohrid, another city on a glorious natural, pure water lake which had been home ot many of the wealthiest Jews. As we walked around, seeing incredible churches, citadels and monasteries, I spoke to Willie, our guide and he told me that his father remembered when he was a very young child, watcing the Jews being gathered into a factory and put onto railway carriages. He remebred his mother pushing some bread and water into his little hands and telling him to get past the Germans and give the starving children the bread and water. He wanted, even as a small child, to grab a child and bring him to safety but knew it was impossible.

Macedonia worth visiting, has amazing sites and sights, is inexpensive and welcoming and best of all just two and a half hours flight from Israel!!

So tomorrow night I won't watch Jerusalem put on her best dress for Shabbat. We cross into Greece tomorrow morning and head for Salonika and another Jewish story, another community and our third country in 6 days!!! The choir music has been amazing, our guides adorable, the food ghastly and the Macedonians among the kindest funniest most welcoming people I can remember!

One question I was asked several times was " How come you are so successful and your young people so mature and focused"? I can only answer you with one of my favourite songs and htis video "Ayn le Eretz Acheret" I have no other country and the pictures of our amazing young IDF. These are young people who are given huge responsibilities, not told to follow anyone blindly, while being good soldiers they are expected to act with responsibilty, loyalty to their fellow soldiers and kindness even to our enemies. I am so proud.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-R7lc3Xlz0

Shabbat Shalom dear friends. Shabbat Shalom 

I leave you with a prayer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4hXWJoz8UY Ana bekoach

With much love